One of the great perks of working as a magazine restaurant reviewer is the sheer volume of fantastic dining establishments I get to visit and nowhere I have lived and worked previously houses such diversity and quality as Bali.
However, after a good few months adding restaurants to my check (been there, eaten that) list and a good few more inches to my ever expanding waistline the thought occurred that we should turn our attention to the ever popular cooking schools operating in Bali and find out exactly what they're up to.
Scanning Google for information, the first results to hit the top of the page are all for The Godfather of Balinese cooking, The Culinary Overlord of Bali's finest homegrown fare, Mr. Heinz Von Holsen and his outrageously popular dining venue, Bumbu Bali.
Heinz's commitment is well documented in Bali dining legend and the six-twenty am rendezvous in Jimbaran is testament to his determination to source the finest quality ingredients from the local fruit and vegetable markets and of course, one of the reasons why Jimbaran is on the map, the vast and very smelly fish market.
Balinese produce markets aren't the sort of place that top the ‘must do' list on many tourists agendas and even though I live in Bali I can count on one finger the number of times I've ventured into the unknown alleyways in search of foodie inspiration. Heinz, on the other hand, lives and breathes pasar life. His class starts off with the dawn chorus at six am with an introduction to the wide variety of Indonesian fruit and vegetables on offer in the Jimbaran market and an initiation to the holiest of holies rites, the genesis of the bumbu (mix) of spices integral to Balinese cooking and from which Heinz's restaurant borrows its namesake.
The Keith Floyd (minus the vat of wine to hand, Heinz eschews such Floyd-esque activities in favour of climbing a different volcano every month) of Bali holds court over proceedings with a well-rehearsed recital on the origins of the fruit, vegetables and fish on sale as his team of staff source only the freshest produce from the dingy, maze like alleyway stalls of the market. A short introduction to the merits of Balinese breakfasting and a few glutinous nuggets of home made cakes later we're off to Benoa and the birthplace of Bumbu Bali to try our hands at recreating no less than twenty-six recipes, all of which are to be sampled later at lunch and available to restaurant patrons later that same evening. The cooking classes are actually held about a hundred metres further north into Benoa from Bumbu Bali on the opposing side of the main thoroughfare in Heinz's Pasar Malam market restaurant and the grounds are designed to replicate the layout of a traditional Balinese kampung, or village including his latest project, the traditional distillation of Arak in an intriguing hillbilly venture tucked out of harm's way to the rear of the complex.
In the kitchen the ingredients come as thick and fast as the running commentary from the man himself as plates of chillies, tomatoes, ground coconut and poultry are weighed, mashed, kneaded and formed into a series of base sauces, sates and main course offerings. Large pots of rice steam away behind, as the dishes take shape, Heinz darts around the kitchen exchanging dry witticisms with his staff and sampling anything that is making its way to the table later that evening.
Apparently I assume sole responsibility for a spiced tomato sauce gone awry, "Did you follow the recipe accurately?" Heinz interrogates. "To the letter", I respond. He casts a suspicious look in my direction, "It's your recipe Heinz", I add weakly, this retort only serves to make matters a hundred times worse, and I look for the support of The Editor who has been busying herself loitering with a cigarette, behind a nearby Bale after a clash of opinions regarding the merits of coconut oil versus palm oil an hour previous. I get the impression Heinz doesn't suffer fools gladly (like most chefs) and I take my cue to retreat to the back of the class until some other unfortunate soul commits a faux pas and I feel it is safe to resume duties.
I can't resist the preparation of one of my favourite Balinese dishes, Sate Lilit, or what we might call minced seafood sate, prepared on fresh sticks of Lemongrass or flat satay skewers and unbelievably tasty. I venture forth from the shadows to take turns at the production of the seafood dishes including another top five dish, the Pesan Be Pasih, (otherwise known as Grilled Fish in Banana Leaf).
By the time we have investigated the correct methodology for cooking Nasi Goreng, revisited the coconut vs. palm debate several more times and learned how to correctly fry from room temperature oil in order that fried food remains crispy (this is today's biggest lesson learned, apart from the abstention of arguing with the boss) it's time to crack open an ice cold Bintang and sample the fruits of our collective labours.
Smelling of several different spice concoctions and an irremovable, odorous whiff of roasted shrimp paste still lingering about my person I make off back in the direction of Jimbaran market to stock up on supplies for an impromptu Balinese dinner party later that evening.
A number of Heinz's recipes can be found on his website www.balifoods.com or more comprehensively in any of his published books available in Bali and internationally.
Cooking school is held weekly on Mondays, Wednesday and Fridays, recipes are rotated on each day. Class with market visit - $65,00 US ++, class without the market visit - $55.00 ++
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